İzmir is the third biggest city in Turkey with a population of around 2.5
million, the second biggest port after Istanbul, and a good transport hub. Once
the ancient city of Smyrna, it is now a modern, developed, and busy commercial
centre, set around a huge bay and surrounded by mountains and was. The broad
boulevards, glass-fronted buildings and modern shopping centres are dotted with
traditional red-tiled roofs, the 18th century market, and old mosques and
churches, although the city has an atmosphere more of Mediterranean Europe than
traditional Turkey.
The climate is comfortable, with a relatively mild summer due to the refreshing
breeze from the Aegean. The long attractive palm-fringed promenade, Birince
Kordon, which stretches the entire length of the city up to the Alsancak Ferry
Terminal, is a popular spot for evening walks, and there are many cafes along
the waterfront. Izmir has a good selection of culture and entertainment, from
the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museums, to the Izmir State Opera and Ballet
and Izmir State Symphony Orchestra, to the many bars and clubs. The cosmopolitan
and lively city gets even busier during the International Izmir Festival
(mid-June to mid-July) with music and dance, with performances also in nearby
Cesme and Ephesus.
Aliağa: Aliağa, which is 60 km. north of İzmir, have signes of İzmir and Bergama
civilizations. 4 of the 12 cities, composing the biggest and most important ones
among Aiol cities, whose number is exceeding 30 at Aegean coasts, are within
Aigaia, Kyme, Myrna and Gryneion province territories.
Dikili: Dikili is a pretty province and popular summer resort, around 120km
north of Izmir. Candarli is nearby, and the area is full of natural beauty as
well as historical interest. There is a crater lake in Medivenli village, and
pine groves and ancient caverns in Demirtas and Delitas. The area is also famous
for its hot springs, which can be found in Nebiler, Bademli and Kocaoba
villages. The port at Dikili is large enough for three passenger ships, and is a
good transport connection.
Seferihisar: Teos antic city at Sığacık region, Karaköse ruins at Doğanbey -
Gerenalanı region, former settlement area constructed within castle and castle,
constructed by Ottomans at Sığacık, monumental structures of Seljukian and
Ottoman period at province center of the province, whose settlement history
reaches till 1000 B. C., are composing the archeological and historical source
potential of the region. Seferihisar has beautiful beaches and bays with its 27
km. Coastal band.
Menderes: Menderes province, which draws attention with its satsuma, beautiful
bays and historical values, is 20 km. away from İzmir. Lebedos Antic City is at
west of province at Ürkmez region. Ruins of Kolophon, Klaros, Notion and Lebedos
Antic Cities, which are on Menderes - Seljukian road as adjacent to each other,
are composing the important archeological sources of the province. Gümüldür
borough is the producer region of Satsuma, which is a world famous kind of
tangerine. Özdere is one of the nine big tourism regions of Aegean Region, and
it is a tourism borough where amateur fishermen can fish besides its clear sea
and coast. Various colored and shaped beads which are produced in natives at
Görece Village of Menderes, are drawing attention of national and international
tourists.
Karaburun: Karaburun is at the northern point of the Urla Peninsula, and its
northern and western coasts have beautiful bays surrounding the Izmir bay. There
were settlements in this area which date back to the Stone Age, and excavations
have indicated it was a developed cultural centre during the Hittite period,
then a trading centre during the Aiol, Lydia and Roman civilisations. It is now
the newest suburb of Izmir, and has a couple of small guest houses and fish
restaurants. Its most dramatic feature is the setting, with villages and
orchards clinging to the steep rock face. There is a bus service in the area,
although private vehicles offer more possibilities for exploring.
Urla: Urla is in the middle of the peninsula and holds all the characteristics
of the Aegean. It lies 38km west of Izmir and used to be a cultural centre with
remains unearthed dating back to the Hitties. It was originally the site of the
Ionian city of Clazomenae, with probably the oldest regularly used port in the
world. Pieces of art and sculpture found during excavations are now exhibited in
the Louvre, Athens National Museum and Izmir Archaeology Museum.
Torbalı: An ancient Ionian city, famous for its wines and religious centre, has
three marble alters devoted to the Roman Emperor August and his foster child
Germanikys, in an ancient theatre which dominates the valley. Pieces of art
found during excavations are exhibited in Izmir and Ephesus museums. The town
has the remains of an old port and a few holiday complexes, and is set
attractively against a pine forest.
Ödemiş: North of Odemis, which is 113km southeast of Izmir, are the ruins of
Hypaiapa. The historical importance of the region began with Birgi, west of
Odemis, which was the capital during the Aydinogullari period and contained
outstanding examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Birgi has been on the
World Cultural Heritage list since 1994, and points of interest here include
Cakiraga Mansion, Imam-i Birgivi Medrese and Sultan Sah Mausoleum.
Tire: One of the largest towns in the area, Tire is 82km southeast of Izmir and
lies at the foot of the Aydin Mountains. Its long cultural heritage includes
periods under the Hittites, Frygians, Lydians, Persians, Romans and Byzantines,
and developed its strong links with the economy during the Ottoman period. The
town has an attractive old quarter with many impressive examples of Islamic
architecture, and a lively Tuesday market influenced by the gypsy population in
the surrounding villages.
Kemalpaşa: The historical background of Kemalpasa, which lies 29km west of
Izmir, dates back to 1300 BC. It was host to the Akkads, Hitties, Seljuk and
Ottoman civilisations, and was a resort between the Art and Ion cities during
Roman and Byzantine times. The only remains from the Hittites in the Aegean
region is the Karabel relief, which is in the province. Previously known in
ancient times as Nymphaion, the town lies at the foot of Nif mountain at 200m
altitude, and is best known for its cherries and pine forests.
WHERE TO VISIT
Kemeraltı Bazaar : The huge bazaar in the city centre stretches from the
coast road to the Konak area, and is a major shopping centre with a vast array
of goods inside. It combines modern businesses, shops and cafes, with antiques,
dried fruit, household and leather goods in old alleyways with vaults and domes.
Inside the bazaar is one of the most interesting structures of Izmir:
Kizlaragasi Hani is an Ottoman caravanserai inside the Halim Aga Bazaar and was
completed in 1745. This covered market sells hand-made products, carpets,
leather and souvenirs. There are many entrances to the markets, from Basmane,
Konak and Anafartalar. Konak is one of the oldest areas of the city, with most
of the buildings that survived the great fire, although the traditional areas
are gradually being modernised. This is the location of the city’s landmark, the
Saat Kulesi (Ottoman clock tower) decorated with tiles.
Asansör (Elevator) : The elevator was constructed by Jewish businessman
Nesim Levi in 1907, in order to make life easier for the local residents going
to their mansions on top of the hill. These days tourists use it to admire the
views of the old streets and houses of Mithatpasa. Located in the heart of
Izmir’s old Jewish quarter, it is housed in a 50m-high brick tower and after
refurbishment in 1992 it now contains a café on the top floor, and the original
hydraulics are exhibited on the ground floor. In its heyday in the 1930s, it
also contained a theatre, cinema, refreshment stall and photographer’s shop.
Kültürpark : The huge Kulturpark in the city centre is one of the densest
green areas in Izmir, covering 30 hectares. Within it are a zoo, artificial
lake, parachute tower, open-air theatre and a collection of bars and cafes. This
has been the venue of the International Izmir Fair every August since 1936.
Botanic Garden : Within the grounds of Ege University are the Botanical
Gardens, one of the best in the country. There are around 3000 species of plants
from the tropical regions to the Alps, many of which are kept under artificial
conditions. The arboretum has hundreds of species of trees and bushes, and the
herbarium centre contains dried plant samples that are preserved for the use of
scientific research.
MUSEUM, ANCIENT CITIES
İzmir Archeology Museum : This was one of the first museums to be
established in Western Anatolia, and has exhibits unearthed from excavations in
the Izmir region. In addition to Greek and Roman remains, friezes, ancient
terracotta, Lycian sarcophagi, and Bronze age pottery, there is also art from
the Ion, Greek, Roman and Byzantine periods. The entire collection is spread
over three floors and a garden floor.
Museum Tel : (+90-232) 489 07 96
Address: Bahri Baba Parkı Konak
Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.
Ethnography Museum : Opposite the Archaeological Museum, the Ethnographic
Museum building was constructed on an inclined terrace in the early 19th
century, in a Neoclassical style. It used to be St Roch’s Hospital for treating
patients with the plague, was repaired by the French in 1845 and then became a
centre for an organisation caring for poor Christian families. It was restored
between 1985 and 1988, and then re-opened as the museum.
Inside, the colourful displays reveal local crafts, homes and folk culture from
the 19th century. These include a reconstruction of the first Ottoman pharmacist
in the area, and part of a traditional house, bridal chamber and kitchen. There
are explanations and displays relating to camel wrestling, pottery production
and even a kiln to make the blue beads to ward off the evil eye.
Museum Tel : (+90-232) 489 07 96
Address: Bahri Baba Parkı - Konak
Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.
İzmir Atatürk Museum : This building, on the huge waterfront street
Birinci Kordon, was constructed as a residence between 1875 and 1880. Ataturk
stayed here whilst participating in the Izmir Economic Congress on 17th February
1923, and the building was presented to him as a gift in 1926 and then opened to
the public as a museum after his death. The mansion contains furnishings and
ornaments from Ataturk’s era. Museum
Ödemiş Archeology Museum : There are exhibition halls, administrative
departments, library, warehouses, photography hall, atölye and laboratory room.
12.000 years of age pieces of art coming from Prehistoric Age are exhibiting in
the Museum, opened on 1987.
Museum Tel: (+ 90 - 232) 545 11 84
Address: Ödemiş
Open hours to visit: 08.30 - 12.00 / 13.00 - 17.00 Open days to visit: Everyday
except Monday
Tire Museum : In the museum composed of an archeological and ethnographic
hall 3592 pieces of archeological pieces of art, 3080 ethnographic pieces of
art, 21980 coins, 78 pieces of archive documents, 16 pieces of manuscripts and
other pieces of art.
Museum Tel: (+ 90 - 232) 512 18 62
Address: Cumhuriyet Mah. Şanizade Meydanı
Open hours to visit: 08.30 - 12.00 13.00 - 17.00 Open days to visit: Everyday
except Monday
Bayraklı (Former İzmir) : Located at the northeast of Izmir Bay, Bayrakli
was the first known settlement of Izmir, which archaeological excavations
indicate was probably around 3000 BC. There is a structure from the 7th century
BC, situated on the upper part of Bayrakli, which was the grave of the
mythological king, Tantalus.
Kadifekale (Velvet Castle) : The old fortress on the hill at the
southeast of the city offers unrivalled views of the surrounding area, and at
its best at sunset, when the lights start to come on and the call to prayer
echoes from many mosques. It was founded in the 4th century BC by Lysimakhos,
one of Alexander the Great’s generals, and was strategically placed in view of
the harbour and the city. It is possible to walk up to the citadel from the
Agora, through narrow streets and old houses, and it remains open although is
not lit at night. On the walls of the ruins are Roman and Byzantine engravings
and the remaining structures include the south walls and five towers at the
west, which date back to the Medieval Age.
Agora : Within the crowded streets of Konak, the agora used to be the
venue for political gatherings and elections. It was built on the orders of
Alexander the Great, probably in the 2nd century BC, and is the only surviving
pre-Ottoman monument, although what remains was the reconstruction by the Romans
after a devastating earthquake. There are 14 Corinthian columns, vaulted
chambers and hundreds of Ottoman graveyards in the eastern section. Many
treasures unearthed during excavations are now exhibited in the Archaeology
Museum.
MOSQUE, CHURCH AND SYNAGOGUES
The most important mosques in the city are Hisar, Yali (Konak), Salepcioglu and
Kestane Pazari Mosque. Others in the city include Sadirvan, Basdurak, Kemeralti
(built in1812), Faik Pasa, (repaired in 1842), Han Bey, Hatuniye Mosque, Seyh,
Fettah, Yali, Ali Aga, Selvili Mescit, Abdullah Efendi and Iki Cesmelik Mosque.
St. Polycarp Church, in Gaziosmanpasa, is the oldest church in Izmir and was
lavishly rebuilt in the 19th century by the French. St Polycarp was Smyrna’s
first bishop, and when he refused to follow the orders of the Romans to renounce
his faith, he was burnt at the stake.
BEACHES
The province of Izmir has a huge coastline on the Aegean, with beaches and areas
for watersports easily accessible from the city by private or public transport
from Uckuyular bus station. Good beaches include Pamucak, Urla, Gulbahce, Cesme,
Altinkum, Foca and Dikili.
YACHT PORTS
The area south of the Cesme peninsula is a significant part of the yachting
routes, and the area between Cesme and Kusadasi is especially popular. Just
south of Cesme is Alacati Harbour, which can accommodate 80 yachts and has many
facilities. Urla Harbour can accommodate 20 boats with another 175 in the
fisherman’s shelter, and 80 in Ozbekkoy harbour.
TERMAL SPRINGS
Balçova Thermal Springs : Mentioned in Homer’s epics as Agamemnon Thermal
Springs, and in the writings of geographer Strabon, these waters have been used
to cure various ailments. Members of Alexander the Great’s army used the spring
to heal their wounds, which made their healing powers famous. The hot water mud
baths and mineral springs, which contain sodium bicarbonate and chloride, are
said to cure upper respiratory inflammation, nephritis, rheumatism, skin
diseases and metabolism problems. The resort is 10km west of Izmir, and there is
accommodation available at the resort.
Bayındır Hot Springs : The group of thermal springs 8 km north of Bayındır and
around 60km southeast of Izmir, comprises of Derekoy and Ergendi springs, both
of which are roughly 40ºC. The waters contain sulphur and sodium bicarbonate,
and are said to heal rheumatism and skin diseases.
Menemen Hot Springs : The hot springs around Menemen, a few kilometres northwest
of Izmir, are actually bubbling inside a cavern. The rocks have ancient
engravings, and the remains of the spring have formed a natural bath with waters
said to heal broken bones and poor blood circulation.
Ilıcagöl Hot Spring : Northwest of Menemen is a lake fed by hot springs, and mud
baths with the warm sulphur water are said to heal rheumatism, skin diseases,
and problems affecting the urethra.
Dikili Hot Spring : The hot spring at Nebiler is 4km west of the Dikili-Ayvalik
road, and contains hydro-acetate ions.
Tavşan Adası Hot Spring : The springs are 15 km southwest of Tire and around
100km southeast of Izmir, near the village of Uzgur. The hot waters of this
resort are used for bathing - good for rheumatism, skin diseases and
gynaecological disorders, and drinking - lung and nutrient metabolic
irregularities.
ART, CULTURE AND AMUSEMENT
For many years Izmir has enjoyed its reputation as a cosmopolitan city of
culture. The Ataturk Cultural Centre hosts weekend concerts by the Izmir State
Symphony Orchestra, and the Izmir State Opera and Ballet perform in an Ottoman
art deco building on Milli Kutuphane Caddesi. During the summer there are events
at the open-air theatre in the Kulturpark, and mid-June sees the month-long
International Izmir festival with many events also in Cesme and Selcuk. The
International Film Festival takes place every April, with foreign films shown in
original language with subtitles.
Regular nightlife includes a host of bars and nightclubs in the wealthy suburb
of Alsansak, with more venues on Birinci Kordon and the surrounding streets. The
cinemas around the city centre tend to show blockbuster American films, many of
which are dubbed into Turkish.
GEOGRAPHY
With characteristics quite typical of a Mediterranean climate, the summers are
hot and dry with an average temperature of 28°C in July and August, and winters
cool and rainy at around 10°C.. Because of its location, the city tends to be a
little cooler that the rest of the region, and the average water temperature
varies between 11°C (January) to 26°C (August).
HISTORY
The history of Izmir stretches back to around 3000 BC when the Trojans founded
the city in Tepekule in the northern suburb of Bayrakli. This was the birthplace
of Homer, who was thought to have lived here around the 8th century BC. The
Aeolians, the first settlers, were eventually taken over by the Ionians, and
then the Lydians destroyed the city around 600BC before a brief recovery
following Alexander the Great’s arrival in 334 BC.
After his death, Alexander’s generals followed his wishes and re-established
Smyrna on Mount Pagos in Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the
Romans. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but later reconstructed and
became a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent
time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I
incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent,
Smyrna became a thriving and sophisticated city and a huge trading centre,
despite its frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with Greek Orthodox, Jews
and Muslims, and many languages were spoken amongst locals and visiting traders.
Following World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, Greece was granted a
mandate over Izmir and entered the area, coming against the resistance of
Ataturk’s nationalists. This resulted in a 3-day bloody battle, during which 70%
of the city was burned to the ground and thousands were killed, and the beaten
Greeks eventually left on the waiting ships. Ataturk formally took Izmir on 9
September 1922, considered to be the day of victory in the War of Independence
and is a national holiday.
WHERE TO EAT
Izmir’s cuisine has largely been affected by its multicultural history, hence
the large variety of food originating from the Aegean, Mediterranean and
Anatolian regions. Another factor is the large area of land surrounding the
region which grows a rich selection of vegetables. Some of the common dishes
found here are tarhana soup (made from dried yoghurt and tomatoes), Izmir
meatballs, keskek (boiled wheat with meat) zerde (sweetened rice with saffron)
and mucver (made from squash and eggs).
WHAT TO BUY
The busiest shopping area is the Kemeralti Streets, which still retain a 19th
century atmosphere of pull-down shutters, thresholds of the doors, low ceilings
and old briquettes. On both sides of Anafartalar Caddesi is the lively
atmosphere of the street vendors, bronze workers and fishermen, and Fevzipasa
Bulvari which is famous for its leather garments. In contrast to the traditional
and busy old market, Alsacak has modern boutiques and Cankaya has a huge
shopping centre much.
DON'T LEAVE WITHOUT
- Visiting Birgi Cakiraga Mansion, Kızlarağası Han, and Asansör,
- Stepping into the past in Izmir Archaeology Museum, Ataturk Museum, Kordonboyu
and Kemeralti Bazaar.
- Tasting Izmir’s famous meatballs in the Asansor Restaurant.
- Buying tasty local dried figs and sultanas
- Shopping for Ödemis Silk (Pembizar), hand-painted handkerchiefs and Görece
blue beads,
Nesim Levi in 1907, in order to make life easier for the local residents going
to their mansions on top of the hill. These days tourists use it to admire the
views of the old streets and houses of Mithatpasa. Located in the heart of
Izmir’s old Jewish quarter, it is housed in a 50m-high brick tower and after
refurbishment in 1992 it now contains a café on the top floor, and the original
hydraulics are exhibited on the ground floor. In its heyday in the 1930s, it
also contained a theatre, cinema, refreshment stall and photographer’s shop. 
